Restaurante Cunini

So after a few glorious days in Barcelona I hopped a Spanair flight (circa 1987 plane...my knees were literally locked into the seat pocket in front of me and cold air blowing on my feet) to Granada. Heading from the Catalan capital to the heart of Andalucia was definitely a change, but all I can say is wowo! Aside from amazing FREE TAPAS (the people of Granada pride themselves on this...calling the rest of Spanairds cheapskates) Granada is breathtaking. It is in a valley that snakes up and around the surrounding hills with the majestic Alhambra towering over it all from the highest perch.

The first night I arrived I was worried I was going to have to scrap my plans to visit Restaurante Cunini for the next night because I set up a special Flamenco booking that ruined my food plans. Somehow, the food gods intervened, because I left my hostel the first night to wander the streets without my guide and let my nose guide me. Well, it led me directly to the Plaza de la Pescaderia where the twinkling lights of Cunini called my name. I really couldn't believe it because I had taken such a round-about way to get there. Clearly, it was meant to be that I eat at this place.

I did not eat in the dining room, opting for the more casual vibe at the tapas bar. Let me warn you Americans or other travelers not used to standing while eating....this is the only option, but you will be rewarded with amazing food at even better prices. This place had a really cool, local vibe with a bit of a 50's flashback...all waiters (no ladies) in vests and bow ties. This is another English language barrier spot, so I really recommend having a small dictionary or come in ready to point and mime your order.

Another tip along the food line is to go slooow. I made the mistake of ordering about three things at once and then noticed that I would get free plates of whatever would be rotating out of the kitchen. This happened about once every 20 minutes so the best bet is order one item, wait and get two other free things in the interim.

I started with the infamous Gambas a la Plancha. If you have not been to Spain, then I think it is less than likely that you have had the pleasure of tasting the most sweet and juicy prawn of your life. This is achieved by leaving the shell on, slathering the prawn with a ton of oil and salt and a quick grill job. You, the eater, are then required to peel that shell off and savor the magic inside. I had already enjoyed a seafood platter at Kiosko Universal in the Boqueria Market in Barcelona, but Cunini killed.

I then had fried Hake filets that came gratis out of the kitchen. These were light meaty joys with a perfectly balanced salt-kissed crust.

I noticed that Cunini was touting Jamon Iberico Cinco Jotas, which for all of the uninitiated is the Rolls Royce of Spanish ham. This is the acorn fed, free range, etc. etc. variety. Anywho, once you put a piece of this in your mouth you taste a "meaty fat explosion." It is hard to adequately describe the perfect combination of complex, gamey pig with the supple, melting fat that accompanies each bite, but trust me, if you see this on the menu in Spain you should order it at least once, or twice. After awhile, however, David and I were so overwhelmed by Jamon that we stayed away all together. We surprised many Madrilenos by refusing to order Jamon Iberico at any of the restaurants we dined at during our last outpost before jetting off to Paris.

I then found a plate of Boquerones fritos in front of me. Boquerones are anchovies and in Spain you will find them in fried, grilled and "marinated" form. I must say I tend towards the marinated camp, but these little fried nuggets were a happy union of salt, crispy batter, and acid from a sprinkling of lemon.

Lastly, I had another "free" plate of what seemed to be a fried cousin of the squid. It had short, stumpy tentacles, but unfortunately, it suffered from a timing issue because it tasted cold and the squid itself was too tough...probably would have shined with a short grill job and a slathering of local olive oil.

Aside from some mis-steps, Cunini proved to be a solid seafood contender and a very welcoming opening night to a wonderful side trip to Granada....a must see in my book.

Cinc Sentits

So a day after my Gelonch lunch, I dragged myself from my beautiful room in the Barri Gotic to another Eixample restaurant, Cinc Sentits, run by chef Jordi Artal. This place is an English-speakers dream come true. I am sadly a Gringa with the most minuscule of Spanish language skills. I spent a majority of my trip tripping around the language, apologetically ordering or asking questions, but at CS this was nary a problem. English speaking Mecca!

I have been around the fine dining block and consider myself a pretty good litmus test for that special "wow" factor. I felt Cinc Sentits is well on its way, but for a few hiccups. I am not in a place to tout my wine acumen so I will merely say that my wine pairings were spot on, except for the overly syrupy sweet wine paired with the foie....that one was waaay too sweet even though I get the purpose was to cut the fatty foie...it just didn't work for me.

Also, my impressions of the dining room was that it was a bit sterile and dated with one wall of brown leather banquettes and strange red rectangular "grills" along the other wall. Oh well, I usually look past ambiance in favor of food so this was no issue for me. Service also amazed...definitely a step above Gelonch, but its hard to compare the two (except both had sous vide pork....and CS won for sure!) since CS has been around the block and back.

After a quick perusal of the menus I thought it was a no brainer to go with the 'Sensacions' menu over the more "rustic" 'Essencia' choice. For those of you who have not been, the 'Sensacions' is their nod to the molecular gastronomy craze overtaking the area, whereas the 'Essencia' is focused more on traditional local favorites. Since I had no chance of securing an El Bulli reservation, I made it a point to try as many other Spanish restaurants attempting the same style of cooking and creating. I think CS deserves some cudos and now to the menu:

Amuse: Maple Syrup shot with salt on bottom and Cava sabayon

1. "Pa amb tomaquet"; fresh tomato sorbet, garlic air, toasted peasant bread

2. Caramelized foie gras "coca"; crisp pastry crust; chive "arrope"; glazed leeks

3. Pan-seared scallop; sweet onion "escalivada" glaze; sunchoke; "jamon" chip

4. Wild Mediterranean red mullet; creamy basil rice; fresh peach

5. Iberian suckling pig; apple "textures"; ratafia

6. Artisanal farmhouse cheese

7. Citrus "snow"; lemon ice cream; effervescent lime sugar; yuzu foam

8. "Grand Cru" chocolate 67%; olive oil ice cream; shattered bread; macadamias

So what was my impression...favorites?

Actually, the amuse really opened the sluice gates for the rest of the meal. The shot, if consumed correctly, which entailed one small initial sip to incorporate the salt and then one clean slurp down the hatch, was a salty-sweet miracle. The rich, caramel syrup, cut with salt...however, my only change would be for them to find a way to actually suspend the salt midway through the shot for a more uniform taste.

I usually never talk bread service, but here the already delicious, soft and chewy rolls of wheat (choice 1) and olive & walnut (choice 2) came with two different olive oils. One was from the west of the city and the other from the north, but both were out of this world. The "western" oil was mild and nutty, whereas the "northern" oil was spicy with just the right amount of bitter. If I had enough room in my luggage I would have bought both....they put most of my California olive oils to shame.

The 3rd course scallop was a delicious buttery soft morsel that was finished with the most crispy "meat chip." This was one of those dishes where ten more of the same would have been happily accepted.

The 5th course pork blew me away. It was pure technique on display. I am a fan of sous vide, however, I am not a fan of sous vide mania...or using it to slow cook the wrong things. Pork is never the wrong thing and using the technique, and then finishing it with a quick sear produced the most sweet, salty, crispy, tender morsel of meat...pure heaven.

It is always smart for a chef to end their tasting menu with a bang and they really did this with the 8th course dessert. The plate came out and all I could smell was nutty, aromatic baked bread. Everyone melts at the smell of fresh baked bread and it set the tone for a finale of bread, salt, and chocolate, simple in its elements, complicated in the technique, and a total win in my books.

So I feel like I have done justice to Cinc Sentits and now readers, it is your turn to go forth and make sure to stop in when in Barcelona...you won't regret spending the cash.

Gelonch

Catalan chef, Robert Gelonch's spot in the Eixample district of Barcelona is a bit of an underdog in the competitive molecular department overtaking the area. I had to spend a decent amount of time scouring foodie boards to come across some very impressive reviews. I decided to give it a shot for an amazing 44.50 Euro 9 course degustation lunch menu. All I can say is that for that price its a Wow!

Without further ado I welcome you my dear readers to the menu (fyi...I am using their translations when given so any misspellings are to be expected at times):

1. French oyster with fruit & gin and tonic gelee

2. Wagu beef carpaccio on cracker with grilled artichoke and rucola

3. Cuttlefish talierini with deconstructed pesto

4. Eight vegetable mini cream in a smoke bell with grilled vegetable and baked tomato broth

5. Octopus & Iberian pork shoulder "Mil Feulle" with baked garlic smoothie and sauteed Chinese garlic

6. Confited codfish with pistacchio sand, griottines and confited quail sauce

7. Iberian piglet 70 degree without bone, served with croissant, tupinambour and cajou nuts

8. Assorted cheese with bananas and honey cream, coffee crumble, sweet baked endives & eggplant ice cream

9. Catalan cream custard foam with apple sorbee, lemon soft jello, caramalized apple and confited lemon peel

The second course of carpaccio was a perfect balance of sweet Parmesan and silky meat melting in my mouth, contrasted with the crispy salty cracker and smoky grilled artichoke. It was an amazing three bites.

The fourth course came out in a soup bowl with a glass bell shaped cover holding in a cloud of smoke. The soup with eight separate vegetable purees was a veritable party in my mouth, but I must say it was better when I sampled each individual component, particularly the eggplant, turnip and carrot purees.

Lastly, the seventh course of sous vide Iberian pork had the perfect crust of crispy golden fat, which when pulled apart and combined with the crispy croissant pieces and the meaty mushroom was a delicious bite.

The desserts were not noteworthy, but the after meal vanilla Madelaine and homemade cocoa-dusted truffle were amazing.

In regards to atmosphere, I can see why some feel it is underwhelming, but I find it is perfectly acceptable for a chef that may not have huge investment backing. It suits the space and there is plenty of room for all the diners.

Service was more than accommodating in my opinion, even if it was not as "polished" as some other restaurants in its category. I personally don't care if my table is not crumbed at every change in courses, or if I am waited on hand and foot. My server was friendly, helpful when he could be (language barrier of course), and attentive.

All in all, this will go into my book as a must re-visit when in Barcelona again:)

Viva La France....Oh and We'll Throw Spain in There Too

Welcome back my dear readers...and once again, sorry for the short hiatus in posts. To be fair, I was out on the road eating, oh and on occasion hitting art galleries and museums with David. Poor thing, he is one of those humans who can eat for eating sake (unless pastries are on the table), and therefore, my food passion is inadvertently forced on him. To be fair, on this trip, as opposed to others, I left huge gaping holes for activity and even booked dinners and lunches in the vicinity of where we would be. So guess what?....I came back from this one 3lbs lighter!!! I have really no idea how that happened with what you will see was a daily food-a-thon. And to be fair, my last Europe trip this summer did not end with any noteworthy results, so I am taking this one as divine intervention.

In the next few weeks you can be expecting posts spanning Spain, including Barcelona, Grenada, Ronda, Sevilla, and Madrid and numerous spots in Paris. One caveat is they will not be underground in the traditional sense, but many are virtually unknown to tourists, so please use these to truly enhance your trip.

I must also make a short plug for the guys at LeFooding. They are revolutionaries in the Paris dining scene, highlighting those places that Michelin leaves behind or only bestows "Bib" status on. Unfortunately, for us Ami's it is only in French, but I hope this will change. Don't expect white tablecloth or spotless sequence of service, but who cares about that stuff anymore (well, some people do...just wait for the Taillevant review)...its all about the food, right? So without further ado...let the reviewing begin!

Treintasillas

The dining Trifecta is finally coming to a close with my final review of the last Buenos Aires underground spot. Treintasillas (translated to thirty seats), located in Colegiales (yet another spot that a cab ride is recommended) is in a typical BA apartment with a kitchen in the back.

The brainchild of all of this, Chef Ezequiel Gallardo, is, in my honest opinion, on to something really good. This humble spot blew me and David away. I usually ridicule the foodie photogs, but at this point wish I had pictures to share with my readers. Suffice it to say, this place should make it on your "must visit" list when traveling in Buenos Aires.

Here was our menu for the night verbatim:

1. Tomato Gazpacho; Marinated Scallops with White Truffle Oil and Coriander

2. Mushrooms; Red Onions; Fresh Oregano and Goat Cheese Tart

3. Roasted Pork Shoulder; Potatoes with Cumin Seeds, Avocado and Smoked Chipotle Pepper Sauce

4. Chocolate Cremoso; Vanilla Cream; Pumpkin in Vanilla Syrup and Kumquats with White Cardamom

There is not much to say aside from each and every one of these courses was both inventive and nuanced. Flavors that normally overpower dishes, enhanced the other elements of each ingredient....Take the white truffle oil in the gazpacho...each bite infused with the fragrance of the truffle, bathing the scallop and playing a perfect companion to the tangy tomato gazpacho.

I chose a wine pairing with each course, but this was not a meal based on wine. It was all about the food. I do promise in the future, dear readers, to note all wines and courses served and new posts will be more information dense.

Next up will be a post or two on San Francisco and then off to France and Spain...oh my :)

La Cocina Discreta

David and I booked a Saturday night table at La Cocina Discreta in the Villa Crespo district of BA. By map it appears to be right in super hip Palermo, but you have to walk a fair bit out of this district to finally arrive at the location. Villa Crespo is a semi-dicey hood, but the sketch factor is quickly remedied by stepping into the really hip apartment that this dinner is held in.

Once inside, we were seated in an open room that was divided into two and four tops. I don't know why, but the BA underground scene is all about keeping everyone separate. No communal tables to be seen. They really take the restaurant setup to heart. From what I heard, Chef Alejandro and his wife used to live in the space, moving all their furniture out of the living room every weekend, but have since moved on to another location.

The wine list was sparse, and expensive in Argentinian terms. After spending a week throwing down $15 for a truly amazing treat, looking at a menu of bottles hovering in the $30+ range was an adjustment. The adjustment period was over once our bottle of Malbec arrived and I took the first sip of the velvety, smooth goodness. I must say, any recommendation they make is well worth the money paid out.

The food was ok. I had a soup of some sort to start. Clearly underwhelming, otherwise it would have stuck in my mind. David had the mushroom tart, which was pleasant, with just the right amount of butter to infuse the mushrooms with earthy goodness.

The next course was a choice of chicken and beef. David was in a beef coma from our lunch, so he opted for the chicken and I took one for the team and went with the beef. This time the table turned. My beef was well prepared at a medium rare and I savored the primal act of consuming such a rare treat. David's chicken....meh.

Dessert was unmemorable, but I was still enjoying my wine too much to care.

Chef Alejandro was a welcoming host and his server ended up chatting with us about her hometown in Mexico. I gained useful information on the legal issues of having a Underground Dinner in BA, much for the benefit of my firm EatLawSF, with partner, David Barzelay.

Overall, although the food was a bit of a letdown, the wine and company made up for it.

La Vineria de Gualterio Bolivar

Sorry for the short hiatus in posting this review, but life has gotten the best of me and kept me from my duties. Without much further ado, I plan on devoting the next three posts to my dining experiences in Buenos Aires.

The first restaurant my boyfriend, David and I visited, could be designated as an "above-ground" spot, but given its relatively non-descript location and unassuming nature I am going to include it. The place is La Vineria de Gualterio Bolivar; the chef is Alejandro Digilio, formerly of El Bulli fame, working under Ferran Adria. As many of you know, or perhaps are not aware, this means this place is pretty heavy handed with the molecular gastronomy....for better or worse.

I am not going to go blow by blow through each of the over 10 courses, but sort of highlight those things that remain poignant in my mind to this very day. I recall a starter of three separate amuse bouche...the first two were unremarkable...one was a dehydrated veggie chip of sorts, but the one that just straight up didn't work was a ice made out of ceviche liquid and some portion of the fish in solid form. The ice cold briny-ness killed any flavor profile from the fish and basically went down in one quick swallow.

Have no fear, because the meal generally picked up from here. There was a sublime slow cooked egg dish....silken smooth goodness. Also, a pork belly from heaven. Needless to say, for an American that would have to pay well over $150 for a similar experience, the jaw dropping $60 for both food and a fair amount of wine was nothing. Even though there were a few minor misses, overall well worth the time and effort. Plus, this place is in the San Telmo district of BA...very artsy, lots of energy, and a fair amount of great restaurants. David and I stayed at the Cocker, which I can wholeheartedly recommend.

A little aside, but the wine that was paired for me was divine. This is a two to three man/woman operation, but front of the house was amazing. Super accommodating, friendly and not one ounce of pretentiousness (which is more than can be said for places like Paris, Rome, etc.).

All in all, our first stop in BA was a good one!