The first night I arrived I was worried I was going to have to scrap my plans to visit Restaurante Cunini for the next night because I set up a special Flamenco booking that ruined my food plans. Somehow, the food gods intervened, because I left my hostel the first night to wander the streets without my guide and let my nose guide me. Well, it led me directly to the Plaza de la Pescaderia where the twinkling lights of Cunini called my name. I really couldn't believe it because I had taken such a round-about way to get there. Clearly, it was meant to be that I eat at this place.
I did not eat in the dining room, opting for the more casual vibe at the tapas bar. Let me warn you Americans or other travelers not used to standing while eating....this is the only option, but you will be rewarded with amazing food at even better prices. This place had a really cool, local vibe with a bit of a 50's flashback...all waiters (no ladies) in vests and bow ties. This is another English language barrier spot, so I really recommend having a small dictionary or come in ready to point and mime your order.
Another tip along the food line is to go slooow. I made the mistake of ordering about three things at once and then noticed that I would get free plates of whatever would be rotating out of the kitchen. This happened about once every 20 minutes so the best bet is order one item, wait and get two other free things in the interim.
I started with the infamous Gambas a la Plancha. If you have not been to Spain, then I think it is less than likely that you have had the pleasure of tasting the most sweet and juicy prawn of your life. This is achieved by leaving the shell on, slathering the prawn with a ton of oil and salt and a quick grill job. You, the eater, are then required to peel that shell off and savor the magic inside. I had already enjoyed a seafood platter at Kiosko Universal in the Boqueria Market in Barcelona, but Cunini killed.
I then had fried Hake filets that came gratis out of the kitchen. These were light meaty joys with a perfectly balanced salt-kissed crust.
I noticed that Cunini was touting Jamon Iberico Cinco Jotas, which for all of the uninitiated is the Rolls Royce of Spanish ham. This is the acorn fed, free range, etc. etc. variety. Anywho, once you put a piece of this in your mouth you taste a "meaty fat explosion." It is hard to adequately describe the perfect combination of complex, gamey pig with the supple, melting fat that accompanies each bite, but trust me, if you see this on the menu in Spain you should order it at least once, or twice. After awhile, however, David and I were so overwhelmed by Jamon that we stayed away all together. We surprised many Madrilenos by refusing to order Jamon Iberico at any of the restaurants we dined at during our last outpost before jetting off to Paris.
I then found a plate of Boquerones fritos in front of me. Boquerones are anchovies and in Spain you will find them in fried, grilled and "marinated" form. I must say I tend towards the marinated camp, but these little fried nuggets were a happy union of salt, crispy batter, and acid from a sprinkling of lemon.
Lastly, I had another "free" plate of what seemed to be a fried cousin of the squid. It had short, stumpy tentacles, but unfortunately, it suffered from a timing issue because it tasted cold and the squid itself was too tough...probably would have shined with a short grill job and a slathering of local olive oil.
Aside from some mis-steps, Cunini proved to be a solid seafood contender and a very welcoming opening night to a wonderful side trip to Granada....a must see in my book.
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